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Many
gardeners look forward to the
exhilaration of gardening in the
autumn. Around you, the garden is
alight with mums, cabbage and kale,
and swaying grasses backlit with
light that casts long shadows but a
golden glow over everything. Getting
ready for the approaching cold can
be handled with dispatch while crisp
temperatures and blue skies are the
norm. Your yard and garden work
during these early fall days will
leave your garden looking cared-for
and ready for more fun in the
spring.
There
are four steps that most gardeners
take in the fall—all easy: They feed
and water plants for winter
readiness; they plant new additions
for next year's garden; they divide
mature perennials; and they clean up
and prepare beds for the onslaught
of winter winds.
Feeding and Watering
Plants
are unable to take up water from
frozen ground, so they need to store
it during the days before the soil
freezes. Plants also lose
water—called transpiration—during
the chilly months, so gardeners have
to do all they can to help keep a
build-up of moisture.
People
worry about promoting new plant
growth in the fall by feeding, but
don't be fooled. Even though you see
signs of plants going
dormant—typified by leaves falling
off the plants—the roots are still
active. The soil remains warm far
longer than the air, and nutrients
taken up now serve to both carry the
plant through the cold and promote
sturdy growth next spring. Miracle-Gro®
All Purpose Plant Food provides a
terrific fall feeding that gives
plants the nutrients they need to
carry them through the winter.
Planting
Besides
introducing bulbs to your garden
plan, plant trees, shrubs, and
flowers too. Nurseries often offer
bargains at this time, because they
don't want to carry plants through
the winter in high-maintenance pots.
Plant them six weeks before frost,
and they'll have plenty of time to
establish their own territory in the
garden. Feed your newly planted
trees with Miracle-Gro® Tree & Shrub
Fertilizer Spikes so spring bloom
will be strong, and lush growth will
be sure.
Amid
copper crabapple leaves, red maples
and burning-bush, lilac-hued
callicarpa berries and berries that
are reddening on many species of
shrubs, plant shrubs that will burst
into springtime bloom without
missing a beat. Their roots will
take hold and flourish with a little
autumn care. Plant what you love to
anticipate—forsythia that heralds in
the spring in bright yellow garb,
lilac for its distinctive smell, and
rhododendron and azalea that will
bring vivid color to your garden.
Many
perennial seeds can be sown, for
this is the time that this occurs
naturally within the garden. You'll
often see small plants begin from
them before winter. No worry—they'll
survive, if they're hardy
perennials. And speaking of
hardy—the pansies that you see for
sale in nurseries now will do just
fine throughout the cold months.
Roots will grow strong, and spring
bloom will be astonishing.
Dividing Plants
Many of
this summer's plants will have
spread and outgrown their spaces by
the time fall arrives. This is the
best part of gardening! Divide your
bounty. Increase your beds. Share
with friends.
Walk
through your garden with a bucket
and a trowel. Anywhere a plant has
outgrown its space and put out
spectacular growth, chances are that
you can split it into sections. Dig
around it, place it in the bucket,
divide it into several pieces that
have active root-growth, and
re-install it in several spots in
the garden.
Clean-Up
We're
programmed to think that cleaning up
is not the fun part, when, in fact,
clean-up in the fall garden is one
of the most artistic and creative
parts of gardening. Here you are in
a garden that has been tumbling all
over itself to grow, bloom, and
burst with luscious color and
grandeur, and now you're going to
sculpt what it is of the garden that
you want to remain and look at
through the winter months. If you
like seeing empty beds, cut
everything back to within an inch or
so of the growth-crown. (An
exception is lavender, which grows
best without the benefit of a
shearing. Other herbs may prefer to
only be cut back partially.) If you
want to see birds continue to visit,
leave some of the seedheads and
sturdy stalks of perennials for them
to perch upon and enjoy. Grasses can
be left to sway and reflect light.
But if you choose to leave the
growth because the look of it
pleases you, be sure to cut it back
in the spring before new growth gets
too big.
Fall in
the garden is a time of wonder. You
will be amazed at the wonderful
growth of the past season, and
you'll wonder what is to come next
season. Crisp fall temperatures make
gardening a pleasure. Every season
provides different kinds of fun, for
you grow in skill, knowledge, and
enthusiasm as your plants cycle
through the year. Enjoy them all!
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Planning Fall Planting
Spring
is the time most of us are out
parading to and from garden centers
and working tirelessly in our
flowerbeds. As Fall approaches keep
in mind that now is also a prime
garden care season. In fact, fall is
a great time to plant most trees,
many perennials and spring flowering
bulbs. And with a smaller demand at
the garden centers you might save a
little money on plants and supplies,
too.
Here are
a few projects that are ideal for
fall:
Plant or Move Trees and Shrubs
Cooler
temperatures protect roots from
scorching, allowing them to take
hold.
An
important step in planting trees is
identifying a quality site with
plenty of sun and room for the roots
to grow. Make sure to plant at the
right depth, too — the new location
should be no deeper than the
previous, or your tree will become
stressed, leaving it susceptible to
disease and pests.
After
your tree has been planted, water it
regularly for three months. If
you're in a colder zone, water until
the ground freezes.
Divide and Plant Perennials
Divide
and plant your perennials, and take
advantage of sale prices as
nurseries clear out their stock.
Planting
perennials in the fall may actually
enhance the plants as the cooler
temperatures help them get used to
their new homes. Roots do not have
to balance new growth like in the
spring or deal with punishing
weather like in the summer.
However,
fall is not the ideal time to plant
fall-blooming perennials, such as
chrysanthemums, aster or goldenrod.
Plant Hardy, Spring-Blooming Bulbs
Bulbs
are an ideal project for fall — easy
to plant and almost guaranteed to
reward you in early spring. Learn
more about buying and planting bulbs
before venturing to your garden
center.
Before
you plant, make sure to thoroughly
prepare your soil, loosening it,
removing weeds and debris, and
adding some organic matter like peat
moss, compost or other material to
help new plants take hold and
improve drainage. If the soil looks
good, you may want to wait to
fertilize until the spring, when a
slow-release fertilizer applied
early can get to work while plants
wake up and start to push through
the new earth.
Take
advantage of cooler days and better
prices and keep gardening well into
the fall season. Come spring, you'll
be glad you did.
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Weed
Control For Fall
The
grass in your lawn isn't the only
plant enjoying the ideal weather
conditions in the fall. Weeds will
start to appear, and if not
controlled will resurface again in
the spring.
If there
are scattered weeds in your lawn,
spray them with Ortho® Weed-B-Gon®
MAX™ Weed Killer For Lawns Ready to
Use. It kills the toughest lawn
weeds without harming the grass, and
it's Rain-Proof™ an hour after
spraying.
Take
care of those weeds with your last
lawn feeding of the year by applying
Scotts® Turf Builder® WinterGuard™
with Plus 2® Weed Control as part of
your Scotts Annual Program. It kills
dandelions and other broadleaf weeds
completely, so you'll have fewer
weeds next spring.
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Late
Fall Feeding For Your Lawn
Almost
all lawns, both in the North and in
the South, will react to the cooler
weather in the fall months by
entering a period of dormancy. And
annual lawn care programs should
include a late fall feeding.
A late
fall feeding, just before the winter
months has several benefits.
First,
it strengthens grass roots for
winter. During the fall, grass is
actually storing nutrients for the
cold weather that is approaching.
This is typical of most perennials.
Most turfgrasses are perennials,
with the exception of a few, like
annual ryegrass.
When
plants like grass are storing
energy, the single most important
nutrient at that time is phosphorus.
Its key role is in the storage and
transfer of energy within the plant
and root growth—and that is what
grass is doing in the late fall.
Phosphorus also promotes strong
roots and it helps grass become more
tolerant of diseases, heat, cold and
drought.
A last
fall application also has the
appropriate amount of nitrogen for
the season. Nitrogen is the key
ingredient in keeping grass green
and lawn grasses use more of it than
any other nutrient. Insufficient
nitrogen also makes a lawn more
prone to disease problems.
Finally,
it has a healthy dose of potassium,
which helps to protect the lawn
during winter as it promotes
tolerance to cold weather and foot
traffic, which can severely damage a
lawn during extremely cold weather.
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Fall Lawn Diseases
The cool
nights and heavy rains of the fall
are great for lawns. Those same
conditions also help turf grass
diseases thrive. If you are out in
your lawn and see a different color
besides green, it could be one of
the following lawn diseases.
Rust
The most
notorious of fall lawn diseases,
rust looks just like, well, rust.
Grass blades are flecked with orange
and walking through an infected area
will leave an orange dust on your
shoes or boots. The disease
generally disappears with a change
in the weather, or fertilization.
Rust seldom becomes a problem until
the grass stops vigorous, active
summer growth. This generally occurs
after an extended dry period.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery
mildew is often ignored since it is
more unsightly than damage-causing,
although it will cause grass to slow
its growth. Turf infected by powdery
mildew will have a whitish,
dull-gray powder on it as if it were
covered with dried soapy water. It’s
presence suggests an imbalance in
the turf’s growing conditions, which
could lead to future problems.
It is
mostly found in shady, cool areas of
the lawn and mostly affects Kentucky
bluegrass. Often the problem can be
remedied by simply trimming a few
trees or shrubs. Treat the infected
area with a systemic fungicide.
Slime Mold
Slime
mold can occur in the spring, summer
or fall after heavy rains. It is
similar to powdery mildew in its
ability to coat the grass blades
with a whitish appearance. No
controls are necessary to control
this fungus.
Red Thread
Red
thread is likely to appear on
water-logged lawns, and particularly
those that are deficient in
nitrogen. Bright pink fungal threads
grow among the grass creating a
pinkish hue. Later, the grass blades
redden and then look bleached. It
rarely forms patches larger than 12
inches across.
Mildly
affected lawns can be given a shot
of nitrogen or potassium and it will
often control the problem. Scotts®
Lawn Fungus Control is most
effective as a preventative, but
will also stop disease in progress.
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The
temperatures continues to drop, all
of your bulbs are planted, the
flowerbeds have been cleaned out,
and in some places snow flurries and
accumulation have started—all signs
point to the arrival of winter.
While your yard and garden become
dormant during these colder months,
it is important not to forget about
caring for your trees and shrubs
throughout the winter.
Many
trees native to temperature regions
require a certain amount of winter
cold in order to start growth
satisfactorily in the spring. This
is particularly true of fruit trees.
A number of fruit–growing areas
experience winters that are not cold
enough for profitable production of
various kinds of fruit.
As
summer becomes a memory, the buds of
many temperate–zone trees and shrubs
begin to enter a condition called
"rest" and will not grow even though
conditions are favorable. This is
nature's way of protecting a tree
from growing during warm spells in
winter, only to be damaged by
fatally low temperatures that may
follow. Remember, you can't fool
Mother Nature!
To begin
this period of rest, buds must be
exposed to low temperatures, usually
below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for four
to eight weeks. As might be
expected, different species and
different varieties or selections
within a species differ as to
temperature effective in overcoming
rest, as well as in the length of
cold they need.
Depending on what part of the
country you live in your trees and
shrubs will require different types
of care throughout the winter
months.
Here are
a few tips to keep in mind during
the winter months:
-
Spread mulch around trees and
shrubs if you haven't already
done so—or if the mulch you put
down earlier needs replenishing.
Good mulching will prevent a lot
of cold burn and will keep roots
from heaving out of the ground
in freeze–and–thaw cycles.
-
For
smaller trees and shrubs in
containers, bring them indoors
to force blooms
ahead of
schedule.
-
Wind
is a major problem during
winter. Protect exposed trees,
like broad–leaved evergreens, by
using a burlap cloth or similar
material (not plastic) to screen
your tree to protect them from
the winter wind.
-
Water your trees while the
temperature is above freezing.
This is especially important for
trees and shrubs that were just
planted earlier this fall, or
those that were moved from one
location in your yard to
another. Do not water when it is
below freezing, however, because
the formation of ice can damage
trees and shrubs.
-
To
keep evergreen branches from
snapping or deforming the tree,
shake off heavy snow. Remove
snow with care and avoid
"scraping" off any ice as it may
injure the tree.
-
In
warmer climates, as the weather
begins to cool down use the time
to prune trees. Thinning out
branches that are close
together, crossing one another
or broken, removes considerable
leaf area without affecting the
overall size of the tree.
-
Warmer weather fruit trees need
to be protected from insects and
diseases by spraying with the
appropriate insecticide. Always
check labels before spraying.
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Prepare
Lawn Equipment for Winter Storage
Step 1:
Clean and Prepare the Mower for
Storage
Fill the
gas tank on your mower just enough
to complete the last mowing.
Afterwards, run the mower until it
runs out of gas. If gasoline is left
in the tank all winter, it will turn
stale and collect water droplets
from condensation.
Next,
clean grass clippings from the
underside and on top of the mower
deck. Drain the oil, and remove the
spark plug. Pour in a teaspoon of
oil, crank the engine a few times to
work it in, and return the plug.
Lubricate all moving parts, tighten
loose screws and store the mower in
a safe place. (Now may be a good
time to take the blade to a shop to
be sharpened to avoid the spring
rush next season.)
If your
basement or garage floor gets wet
during the winter, raise the
equipment onto a small platform made
from boards or a sheet of ½-inch
plywood laid over several lengths of
2x4.
Step 2:
Clean the Spreader
Prepare
your spreader for storage. Simply
clean the spreader with a hose, and
spray off any remaining fertilizer
particles, being sure to clean out
the hopper and underneath the
spreader. Wash your spreader with
hot water to dissolve any caked-on
material. When you're done, wipe off
excess water and let the spreader
air dry. Next, oil bearings and any
other sliding or rotating metal
parts. On metal spreaders, wipe a
thin coat of oil on the bottom of
discharge ports.
Step 3:
Clean Edgers and Trimmers
Clean
off grass and other debris from your
edger and trimmer tools. Like your
mower, run them until they are out
of gas (if they are gas-powered) and
disconnect the spark plug. Clean off
any dirt and debris from you edger.
Lubricate all moving parts and
tighten any loose screws. Store the
tools in a safe place until they are
needed again next spring.
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13
Best Gardening Tools
To
anyone starting a first garden,
buying all the tools can be pretty
intimidating. This list covers the
basics that you'll need to get
started.
Trowel
Spade
(for digging and transplanting)
Shovel
(for moving earth and mulch,
flipping compost, etc.)
Hoe
Pruning
shears
Sharp
knife
Narrow
digging tool
5-gallon
bucket
Cart or
wheelbarrow
Hose
Watering
can
Hat (for
sun protection)
Gloves
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